VALPOLICELLA traditionally comes from a row of parallel slopes to the east of Lake Garda in north east Italy.

Such was the post-war popularity of this simple, light fruity red that the area of production was stretched down the slopes, south to the plains where production could be increased to meet demand.

Sadly, this increase in output saw a corresponding decrease in quality.

As a result, the name Valpolicella was a term for some of the most awful red wine ever to come out of Italy.

Thin rough red wine poured out of the region, most of it tasting of either dates or bananas.

Thin and acrid with a dollop of abrasive alcohol, a whole generation came to know the two-litre, screwcap flagons that still strike terror into most wine-lovers.

Things have changed , by and large. There is still a vast amount of red wine produced under the name Valpolicella.

The difference is that, even at the lowest end, much of the dreadful gut rot has been weeded out. I am sure an enthusiast could still winkle some out but, on the whole, the simple stuff is at least clean and fruity.

The prime reason for this gradual improvement is commercial. As the domestic market for wine in general was decreasing the hardest hit sector was the ultra basic everyday quaffing wine.

The increased sophistication of the average wine consumer both in Italy and abroad saw a rapidly diminishing demand for such wine. Things had to improve, fortunately with the advent of modern methods of vinification and better practice in the vineyard more conscientious growers were able to improve their quality.

As usual, a handful of the better producers had always made seriously good wine and they became the spearhead of the drive for improved quality

Producers such as Quintarelli, Tedeschi and Masi have always made great Valpolicella and their example was being followed by others.

The best region within the region is naturally enough the Classico region based on the original slopes.

If you want more than a simple, juicy tart cherry red with a whiff of almond then you must look out for either a big name producer or the Valpolicella Classico.

Of course, as ever in Italy, the mere use of the name Classico does not guarantee the quality of the wine, as it should.

Many of the better producers also produce Valpolicella by the Ripasso method where the new wine is passed over the lees of the Recioto or Amarone wine.

The new wine takes on some of the complexity and character during a secondary fermentation.

The resulting wines can be some of the finest of the region with glorious, tobacco leaf and plum complexity backing up the bitter cherry and medicinal tones of good Valpolicella.

Recioto is made from the best grapes of the best bunches which have an added degree or two of sugar and therefore potential alcohol.

The straight Recioto della Valpolicella has a sweet edge due to the arrested fermentation which leaves some residual sugar in the wine.

Amarone is fermented out producing a drier darker wine, amer meaning bitter.

Best buys: Our favourite wine was the Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella 1996 priced £12.99 (£23.98 a magnum) at Majestic.

This one has a wonderful perfume of ripe, juicy plums and cherries in an essential, freshly crushed way.

This is intermingled with a sweet, tobacco bitter orange peel backbone.

On the palate it explodes into a complex mix of sweet, dried fruits, cinnamon spice and freshly crushed plums and bitter cherries.

A serious mouthful for the end of the meal with a piece of cheese or some nuts.

Majestic also have the Capitel San Rocco Ripasso 1995 from Tedeschi priced £6.99.

This has the classic dried fig and plum edge to the ripe plummy fruit and is full and warm on the palate.

Our favourite straight Valpolicella was from Tesco with their Valpolicella Classico 1999 priced £4.29.

The sweet, ripe peppery strawberry nose has touch of cherry on the edge

On the palate it is full and warm with that astringency of almost sour, bitter cherry fruit that lifts the palate and makes this one an excellent food wine.