INCREASING your stock of plants by taking cuttings can seem quite daunting until you have tried it. I remember when I felt that this aspect of gardening was shrouded in deep mystery and far beyond anything I could ever hope to manage for myself. Basically, it's a method whereby you cut off a bit of a plant, stick it in a pot with some compost, wait for it to grow and then you have a new plant, identical to its parent. Easy! Well almost. There are some ways of doing it that are more successful than others but, essentially, it really is a simple process.
Taking cuttings is a very useful way of getting new plants. By doing this, you not only guarantee a plant exactly the same as the one you took the cutting from (you can't depend on propagation from seed being the same), it hasn't cost anything and its all done in a short space of time. Beginning to sound good?
The principle behind success with your cuttings is a race between the new roots developing (the plant needs these to take up water and food) and the moisture lost through evaporation as the cells collapse and wilt. Warmth will do a lot to speed up the development of a root system, while moisture will help to delay the new plant wilting so the more moisture the cutting has access to the less likely it is to wilt before the new roots form.
Take your cuttings from fresh growth and put them in a warm place with a polythene bag tied over the top (not touching the leaves) to maintain as much moisture as possible.
Usually, stem cuttings are likely to be the most successful and these may be softwood, semi-ripe or hardwood, although some plants can be propagated from both root and leaf cuttings.
Softwood cuttings - these are usually taken in May or June from new shoots. On the plus side, they are more likely to root than the older shoots but have the disadvantage that they may die before new roots can establish. To be successful they do need a warm and moist environment.
If you have a propagator this is ideal but, if not, good results can be achieved by growing the cuttings under a polythene bag.
Begin by getting the compost ready and this needs to have really good drainage. Make a mixture of half and half general compost and vermiculite or sharp sand fill some small pots (anything will do as long as it has drainage holes and room for the new roots to grow).
Cut about a dozen healthy growing tips about 15cm long and pop them straight into a polythene bag to help reduce loss of moisture.
Once the cutting has been taken speed is all important.
Trim each cutting to just below a leaf node then strip off the bottom leaves so that just a few are left at the top.
Put the cuttings into the compost between 3cm and 5cm deep. Water and pop inside a propagator or polythene bag in a sunny position. Watering shouldn't be necessary for a few days - too little water will cause the cutting to wilt and too much can induce mould - so try to get the balance right.
You will know when the cuttings have taken as new leaves will begin to form. When this happens gently repot the new plant in normal compost.
Semi-ripe cuttings - These are taken later on in the summer when the new growth has ripened and generally are a tougher lot than those taken from softwood but they are slower to root. Start by cutting the stems just below the bottom of this year's growth.
They can be treated in the same way as softwood cuttings or put straight into a cold frame. Those from deciduous plants will drop their leaves as autumn approaches and its best to clear these away. By the next spring new growth will show if they have rooted and those that have should be potted on.
Hardwood cuttings - These are taken from mature wood in winter. Those from deciduous plants are leafless at this time so will not suffer from moisture loss but they will take a longer time to root. Hardwood cuttings should be put outside right from the beginning.
Preferably where they won't be moved for anything up to 15 months, although some of them may be ready for potting on by the following autumn. Make a V-shape trench in the soil and fill it with sharp sand. Cut the tops at an angle above a bud and plant in the trench at intervals of approximately 10cm and about 2.5cm deep. This will help to delay the cutting drying out.
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