MENTION a tale of two cities and you could be forgiven for thinking about a novel by Charles Dickens, not Los Angeles, a city located off the warm shores of the south Californian coast.

But delve deeper into Californian history and you will discover two very different sides to the city of angels. Early settlers sought to create a moralistic haven lined with orange groves, blue skies and golden sands.

This dream was pushed aside, however, when the entertainment industry arrived in town, causing a clash of ideals and the birth of "noir" culture. Since then, a number of classic films and novels have explored the idea of Los Angeles as a city divided by dream and reality, such as The Big Sleep, Chinatown and LA Confidential.

Don't be fooled into thinking then that Los Angeles is simply all about Hollywood celebrity and the high-life. But neither is it about gangs and drive-by shootings. In reality, these different sides to Los Angeles make it a fascinating place to visit.

For those new to the city, you may find yourself relying on signs to help you navigate your way around, but you will never see one pointing to the city centre because there isn't one. Los Angeles is a sprawling city subdivided by freeways and bounded by ocean and mountains. The best way to get around is by car. Public transport is available but is at times unreliable and will often take the longest possible route.

Head off first towards the west side and check out the indisputable jewels of Los Angeles the beaches. Santa Monica boasts mountains to the north, a glistening Pacific Ocean to the west and boulevards lined with palm trees. Watch out for rollerbladers and cyclists who frequent the beach paths. Third Street offers a festive feel with market stalls and street performers, as well as a good selection of clothing stores and coffee shops.

Venice Beach offers something more of a bohemian experience, and don't be surprised if you find yourself accosted by ageing hippies and psychics. Check out the pumped-up posers down at "Muscle Beach", an outdoor gym on the beach where fitness fanatics show what they are made of.

For something a little more upmarket, try Zuma, Malibu or Pacific Pallisades, where the beaches are spotless and offer scenery which is quintessentially southern Californian.

Now you have the taste for the high-life, head to Beverley Hills, where yes, you really can spot celebrities walking down the road or sitting at a table next to you in a restaurant. The area seems to ooze money from every pore, from the lushly-planted streets to the beautiful architecture gracing the residential avenues. If you're feeling the need for a little Gucci, Armani or Prada, pay a visit to the shopping district around Rodeo Drive and Dayton Way, but be prepared for a melted credit card at the end of your spree.

Next stop, visit the sprawling campus of UCLA, famous for its beautiful landscaped grounds and architecture, before going on to the nearby Westwood Village, which is one of the few walkable districts of Los Angeles and great for inexpensive Persian and Italian cuisine.

For some more celebrity-spotting opportunities, navigate your way around Bel Air, home to possibly more stars than the night sky. Many houses are well-hidden behind imposing walls and security gates, but you might just get lucky and catch a glimpse or two of someone famous.

Round your day off by visiting the Walk Of Fame down Hollywood Boulevard and see all the hand and footprints of your favourite celebrities.

To discover more about the city's Spanish roots, visit Olvera Street in downtown, where a museum is dedicated to the first settlers who began farming there in 1781. La Placita, the oldest Catholic church in Los Angeles, built in 1784, has some impressive ceiling murals well-worth a visit.

Los Angeles also boasts a wonderful range of museums, including the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), the Museum of Tolerance and the Getty Centre, which houses an impressive collection of antiquities and art.

As the night draws in, visit the Sunset Strip in West Hollywood for all the best nightclubs and bars, including the House Of Blues, the Key Club and Whiskey-a-go-go, where The Doors were once the in-house band.

Places to stay
The Beverley Hilton ****
Le Meridien Beverley Hills ****
Wilshire Grand Hotel ***

Eating out
Do not miss The Cheesecake Factory in Beverley Hills, which offers an incredible range of yes, cheesecakes, along with a full menu of Southern Californian cuisine.

Getting there
Direct flights are available from all London airports to Los Angeles.

Must do
Visit the Griffith Observatory in West Hollywood at night for a spectacular view of the city. The funky Encounter restaurant at Los Angeles airport. Fashion shops galore line the exclusive Beverley Hills district.