EXQUISITE is not often a word you use about a boozer but then you would never, ever be so crass as to call The Hollybush a boozer.

The Hollybush is to your normal local what a greasy spoon is to tea at the Ritz.

In fact, with its antique china plates, embroidered doilies (there are no beer mats), fresh flowers, and highly polished tables, a cup of Twinings might be more appropriate than the superbly-kept Fuller's ales it actually dispenses.

I walked out there on jubilee day, no mean feat (or should that be feet?) as The Hollybush is at Potter's Crouch, a five-mile round rural ramble from the city centre.

But best not to drive when you're planning to drink a health unto Her Majesty in Fuller's jubilee edition Golden Pride at nearly eight per cent an awesome barley wine.

As always, it was a peaceful place to recuperate from the previous day's riotous street party.

There is no music and the murmur of civilised conversation rarely rises above the level of the lending library.

The clientele, mainly middle class and middle aged, with a sprinkling of maiden aunts, looked as if they must have enjoyed that day's headline in the Daily Telegraph no, not the loyal greeting to the Queen, but 'record leap in house prices.'

From the gleaming copper kettles in the inglenook fireplace to the ladies loo with china washbowl set in an old oak cabinet, this place is immaculate.

It is the cleanest pub you could ever visit.

Home-baked wholemeal bread accompanies hearty ploughman's of traditional cheese and heaped platters of ham and pate or smoked salmon with tuna and prawns.

My beer was elegantly served in a stemmed glass, but I could equally have chosen a fine wine, such as Ellingham Sauvignon Blanc.

At £2.55 the London Pride is on the dear side.

But what price are award-winning cellarmanship and wonderful surroundings that include honeysuckle round the entrance door and a lovely country garden?

June 26, 2002 13:30