INSTEAD of taking over existing hostelries, the burgeoning Wetherspoon empire tends to convert unexpected venues like former banks and bingo halls, police stations and even undertakers.

In St Albans it is the one-time army recruiting centre in Chequer Street where, ignoring the temptation to call it the Recruiting Officer, they did a bit of research and called it the Cross Keys, after a public house that stood on the site many, many moons ago.

On the scale of Wetherspoons big, vast and you'll never find your way out again this one is big. It has a large roped-off area for family eating, though you don't have to have an ankle-biter in tow to sit at one of the two dozen tables including wall booths that provide a bit of privacy.

What I like best about Wetherspoons is the interesting, changing choice of well-kept real ales at rock bottom prices on the long, long bar.

On jubilee day I drank a half of Smiles' ER at only 70p, or £1.39 a pint during the festivities. Normal beer prices start at £1.55 a pint, or £2.80 for a two-pint pitcher. And I reckon that's a great way to woo young drinkers away from high alcohol drinks and introduce them to the pleasure of natural, cask beers though granted wine is from £1.80 a glass, doubles £2.45.

A high proportion of the Cross Keys' drinkers are young people, though it cuts across the age groups. It's not unusual to see a pensioner waiting for the place to open.

The food is bargain basement, too Sunday roast £4.49, huge mixed grill for £5.79, twister fries with sour cream dip £2.69, and veggie choices like mushroom, Brie and garlic tart.

Two meals for a fiver include cottage pie, fish 'n' chips, or the Caesar Wetherwrap.

Some Wetherspoons gain awards for their refurbishment of important buildings.

The Cross Keys is not in that category but it's cheap, cheerful and often heaving.

June 26, 2002 13:00