BROUGHT up in Kilburn, the Elephant and Castle was always some sleazy tube train destination in one of the less salubrious areas of south east London.

Nothing could be more different than the idyllically-sited Elephant and Castle in Amwell hamlet near Wheathampstead, a pub surrounded by flowers and greenery.

A genuinely lovely old pub with flagged floors, beams and open fires including a large inglenook the chilly day I was there they needed them it has a talking point in the back bar; a seemingly bottomless well, happily glass topped, as it is too terrible to contemplate what might happen otherwise, when you've had a few.

And if you want a few, there are a few real ales, that is, a selection of four including a rare Smiles Brewery beer when I was there, in well-kept Casque Mark approved condition (Good Beer Guide entry and Institute of Innkeeping recommended, too).

When I walked in in my wellies after a trek, it was packed with families enjoying a good Sunday roast plateful with fresh veg and all the trimmings at £5.95, from grannies to tots though there is one child-free bar and, more unusually, one child-free garden, too. They can run around in the other.

The E&C is well known for its food (I included it in my Camra Good Pub Food guide last time round), with an imaginative selection of home-made specials lunchtime and evening, which keep the place busy. Clearly full of locals who all knew each other an outside notice board gives details of village meetings and concerts I was nonetheless made welcome.

The only hitch came when I went into the outside ladies' loo there was no lock. Fortunately, there's a rather more secure one inside.

SN

July 3, 2002 15:30