Memories of a bustling little market town at the turn of the century

The approach to the town at its northern end was the meeting of three main roads, somewhat narrow by modern standards from St Albans, Rickmansworth and Hemel Hempstead, and this road junction became known as the Watford Crossroads.

I recall that in the centre of the Crossroads stood a little island with a tree and a seat beneath it, together with a signpost directing travellers to the various towns.

A uniformed AA Scout also stood in the centre of the road directing the traffic and giving a smart salute to passing cars.

A short distance along the high street from the Crossroads stands, as it has for centuries, the Watford pond.

In those days it was left in its natural state, surrounded by a wooden railing with one end left open to allow horses to enter the water and refresh themselves.

On the left hand side of the pond a high red brick wall ran from the cross roads to Monmouth House leaving a footpath between the wall and the pond.

Behind the wall stood several interesting old houses all of which were demolished many years ago, together with the wall, under a redevelopment scheme.

On the other side of the high street several old houses stood at the Crossroads, one of which was known as Faircross House, and from there along the High Street for some distance ran a wooden fence extending to the fire station and behind which were two large houses known as Woodlands and the Shrubbery.

Next to the fire station on the corner of Upton Road stood Upton House, a large building with a walled frontage which housed the offices of the Urban District Council.

On the opposite side of the road Monmouth House still remains but the front garden wall has been removed and the ground floor has now been converted to contain a row of modern shops.

The area opposite Monmouth House and beyond Upton Road became known as The Parade.

In the early years of the century, the day of the supermarket and multiple store were undreamed of and nearly all the shops in Watford were under private ownership with the proprietors taking an active part in the running of their business.

Some of the more notable shops in The Parade which come to mind are Arthur East Agricultural Implement Dealer and Corn Chandler, the Empress Tea Rooms in the building destined to be the Metropolitan Railway Station, Wrens Leather Goods Shop, with its aroma of tan and leather in all its departments, and Bucks Restaurant where ladies would regularly meet their friends for mid-morning coffee and a chat after shopping.

On the other side of the High Street, before Clarendon Road stood a modest Clements shop, Jays Furniture Store and a small Sainsbury's.

This shop was divided by a partition in the centre and on the left hand side stood the bacon and butter counter.

If the customer required butter, however large or small the amount, the assistant would take two specially shaped pieces of wood known as pats, and slice off a piece of butter from a large block.

He would then pat this into an oblong shape and place this on the scales, adding or removing as necessary until the correct weight was reached, and this would then be wrapped and handed to the customer.

If bacon was required, the assistant would produce a joint of bacon for inspection, and, if approved, would place this on the bacon slicing machine.

After making an adjustment for thickness would turn the wheel by hand and cut off as many rashers as required which could then be weighed and wrapped.

Should cheese be required the assistant would place a large block of cheese on a board to which was attached a wire with a handle at the end and slice off the amount required by cutting through with the wire.

An experienced assistant could judge with some accuracy the size and weight of the amount required.

On the other side of the partition the right hand counter was devoted to dry goods such as tea and sugar.

The tea was stored loose in tea chests, and other items such as sugar, flour, rice, oats and other commodities in sacks.

On request, the assistant would use a scoop to place the item required in a paper bag and then weighed to the customers requirements.

Courtesy and personal attention to the customers requirements were always the rule and this may well have helped to lay the foundations of the great business which we know today.

I have a recollection as a small boy of one shop in this area, whose name is now lost to me, where the proprietor had installed a number of wires stretched across the ceiling.

Having completed a sale, the assistant would place the money and an invoice in a small wooden cup.

It would then be screwed on a fitting on the wire and on releasing a handle the cup was sent by pneumatic force along the wire to the cashier's office where a receipt and any change necessary would be returned to the assistant by the same means and then handed to the customer.

I was always greatly fascinated by this system and although times were more leisurely in those days it must have proved somewhat cumbersome.

I do not recall how long this system was in operation.

On crossing Clarendon Road a small row of shops could be found including a small W.H. Smiths and a wet fish shop owned by Plumb and Anker.

On the corner of Meeting Alley stood Rogers and Gowlett, an ironmongers business which seemed able to meet the request made by any customer.

Next to Rogers and Gowlett stood the premises of J.P. Taylor, a high class gentleman's outfitter, with its interesting bay windows and stone pillars supporting the upper frontage.

Also in this area stood the premises of the London Domestic Bazaar, an early competitor and similar in method to Woolworths.

I can recall seeing a counter in this store piled with spectacle frames and lenses, at which several elderly gentlemen were peering through different lenses in turn until they found a pair of glasses suitable to their vision.

This was, of course, before the days of NHS, and oculist tools.

In the Market Place could be found a small business owned by Cawdells and the Essex Arms hotel, a distinctive feature of this ancient inn being the balcony built out over the pavement at the entrance from the first floor.

This balcony was used as a focal point for many years by those wishing to make political speeches or address public meetings.

It is said that W.E. Gladstone once made a speech from this vantage point while passing through town.

Perhaps the most notable event was the reading of the Riot Act in Watford from this balcony in 1902.

Further down was a large building which for a number of years was occupied by Kinghams Grocery Store.

On the opposite side of the Market Place, between the Green Man and Market Street, stood a little row of shops and I can recall one in particular with its little stone steps leading up to the front entrance and which specialised in the making and repair of umbrellas.

Fishers butcher shop stood on the corner of New Street in the Market Place and was reputed to have the largest private room in Watford over the shop.

On the corner of Loates Lane stood the offices of The Watford Observer, behind which were the printing works where the paper was printed and dispatched every Friday afternoon.

Near the entrance to Queens Road, Goddards large furniture store could be found.

In the 1920's a proposal was made to the borough council that in view of increased traffic conditions part of the High Street should be widened and the shops between the Market Place and the churchyard entrance should be demolished and a landscaped vista of the parish church.

This plan was considered at some length by the council.

But it was decided in view of other development being considered for traffic control not to proceed with this scheme.

As a result of this decision, the shops were allowed to remain.

Today they form part of the High Street precinct.

Just past the churchyard stood a J. Lyons Tea Shop and on the corner of King Street stood a small public house known as the Kings Arms which was originally said to be the entrance lodge to Watford Place.

With the growing development of the town and the increasing volume of traffic it gradually became apparent that the junction of Queens Road, High Street and King Street, was a danger spot.

A police constable was stationed at this point to control the traffic and avoid the possibility of an accident.

The premises on the corner of Queens Road were occupied for many years by Boots the Chemist prior to its move to a new building in the Market Place.

Further down the High Street could be found Chaters Chemist Shop, the owners of which were public benefactors and greatly esteemed in the town.

Further along the High Street near Water Lane stood Gibsons the pork butchers.

His meat and sausages had a high reputation for good quality throughout the area.

On the corner of Water Lane stood Messrs Pearkes Drapers Shop. After passing the High Street Station the shopping area ceased and on the right hand side a large area of land was occupied by Benskins Brewery.

This business has now been closed and the buildings demolished with the exception of Mr Benskins private house fronting on the High Street which is now in use as the Watford Museum.

On the other side were the disused premises of Sedgwicks Brewery, the Watford Flour Mills and the local gas works.

July 5, 2002 10:30